‘What is this?’ The horrified young border police officer at Ben-Gurion Airport seems not to believe her eyes. She stares at the visas – from Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Tunisia and Turkey – in my entirely stamped passport. But after a few short minutes I am allowed to collect my luggage and jump a cab to Jerusalem. It is my first trip to Israel – I am making a film about the Austrian Holocaust survivor Karl Pfeifer.